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Revisiting Hummus

 
Oh yes. It's time to talk hummus. Again. It's September -- time for back to school, new jobs, more traffic, and half your office is no longer on vacation. And it's time to get serious, with hummus. For long time readers, you know I was pretty serious about hummus when I first posted about it here over five years ago. But I think it's time we talked about it again.

Some of the things I talked about many years ago have not changed - I still think you have to peel the chickpeas, I will still have a coniption if you call something with white beans "hummus." But a lot of things about my method have changed, and I'll explain why.
 
First of all, I have made hummus over a dozen times in the last two months. Luckily, you already knew I was a crazy person. When Paul sees another bowl of chickpeas soaking on the counter he now groans with dread. But all that cooking, testing this method vs that, soaking chickpeas, peeling them, not peeling them, all led me to a new and improved recipe.
 
So what's changed? Well, you still have to cook your chickpeas from scratch to make good hummus, that has not changed. And yes, you still have to peel the chickpeas. But what has changed is baking soda. Yes, baking soda.

You see, a while back, I was eating at a Lebanese restaurant and noticed how soft, tender, and deeply yellow their chickpeas were. And I started thinking how a better technique for cooking chickpeas could lead to better hummus. Baking soda is a well-documented way to make chickpeas soft, tender, and yellow in color. So why didn't I use baking soda before? Well, before my recipe called for using some of the chickpea cooking water to thin the hummus, but chickpea cooking water with baking soda has an off taste. So, I've swapped that out with some cold water. I've also updated my recipe a bit to incorporate my own laziness, doing the whole thing in the food processor, instead of making the tahini sauce separately.

So go forth my friends, make some hummus!

P.S. Notice how the hummus in the top photo looks smoother than the hummus in the bottom photo? Well, the bottom photo is form one of my experiments with unpeeled chickpeas. The difference in visible folks!

Hummus bi-Tahini
The quality of your tahini makes a difference here, so try to find the best quality and freshest tahini (sesame seed paste) available. Baking soda does not interact well with pots with non-stick linings, so avoid using them here. This recipe makes more chickpeas than you may need.

2 cups dried chickpeas
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 very small clove of garlic
1/2 teaspoon salt (preferably sea salt or other good quality salt)
juice of 1 small lemon
scant 1/2 cup tahini paste (6-7 tablespoons)
for serving: olive oil, cayenne and/or cumin

1. Soak the chickpeas in plenty of water overnight, or for as long as 24 hours.
2. Drain and rinse the chickpeas. Add the chickpeas to a large pot, preferably a heavy-bottomed clay or ceramic pot, add the baking soda, and plenty of water to cover. Bring the pot to a boil, watching it closely because the baking soda may cause it to foam and overflow. When the water boils, lower the heat so that your chickpeas are just at a simmer. Skim off the baking soda foam.
3. Simmer the chickpeas until they are golden, the skins are loosened, and they are tender when squished with your finger, but don't totally turn to mush. For me this usually takes 40 minutes, but it could take up to 50-70 minutes.
4. Drain the chickpeas and give them a quick rinse with cool water. Now peel your chickpeas by simply pinching the skins off them. Transfer the peeled chickpeas to a bowl and discard the skins. You can choose to refrigerate of freeze your chickpeas here, or proceed immediately.
6. Measure out two lightly-packed cups of chickpeas into your food processor, reserving the rest for later. Add in the garlic and salt and run the food processor to create a coarse paste.
7. Add in the tahini and lemon juice. Turn on the food processor and process for 2-3 minutes, letting the mixture come together. Check how thick your hummus is, and taste for seasoning. You may want more salt. With your food processor running, add 2-4 tablespoons of very cold water, depending how thick/thin you want your hummus. Remember that your hummus will thicken as it cools so I tend to err on the side of a little looser mixture. Run your food processor for 2-3 more minutes so that the hummus is very smooth. Check for seasoning, it may need more salt.
9. Scoop your hummus into a serving container and let rest for 10-15 minutes for the flavors to meld. Place some of the reserved cooked chickpeas over your hummus. Drizzle olive oil over the top and sprinkle with cayenne and/or cumin as desired.
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Our Christmas Cookie Recipe Swap

 
A good Christmas cookie is a memory wrapped in wax paper Loop app. It conjures warm thoughts of holidays spent with loved ones and promises of new experiences yet to begin under the tinseled tree.

We at Epicurious believe that just as you can never give or get too many presents, you can never have too many holiday cookie recipes in your recipe box. So, 10 editors of Epicurious and Gourmet Live swapped our most beloved family recipes dc electric motors, from Vanilla-Cherry Chocolate-Chip Cookies and red-and-green-sprinkled Santa's Whiskers to Peanut Butter Kiss Cookies and Pecan Pralines. Be sure to read our guide to cookie swaps for tips on hosting your own.

Below is our gift to you, 10 treasured recipes in this virtual Christmas cookie swap Managed Security:

Lemon Ginger Tartlets


It’s been almost ten years since I was first in touch with Claire, the talented author of the pioneering natural foods blog Clea Cuisine, and over time we’ve built a simple and sincere friendship that means a lot to me.

Clea is one of those rare persons who radiate with confidence and serenity, as if the turmoil of the outside world and its latest trends left them unfazed, so busy they are following their own path, guided by their own taste. These qualities have earned her a crowd of loyal and engaged readers whose food lives she has often changed, as one of the very first in France to write about agar agar, rice flour, and almond butter dr max.

And so when she suggested a culinary exchange between our respective blogs, I accepted without a moment’s hesitation: the idea was for each of us to pick three recipes on the other’s blog, combine them vigorously in a shaker, and come up with a new recipe inspired by the mélange.

The opportunity to dive into one another’s archives was not the least of the associated perks, and I personally chose her Cream of carrot with white miso and ginger, her Chocolate and ginger pudding with agar agar, and her Ultimate lemon tart.

Initially, I decided to make a lemon tart flavored with ginger and white miso — you can read more about using white miso in desserts. But my preliminary tests did not convince me that white miso had its place in this recipe, so I shelved the idea and opted instead to make lemon ginger tartlets, which delighted all who had the chance to sample them.

The pairing of lemon and ginger no longer has to prove itself, and all I had to do was add finely grated fresh ginger to Clea’s lemon curd recipe. I share her taste for a very tangy lemon tart — i.e. not very sweet — and to me the formula below achieves the perfect balance. This vividly flavorful lemon ginger curd could also be prepared for its own sake, to spread on a pretty brioche, pimp your yogurt, garnish crêpes, or dip a spoon in (I won’t tell).

For the crust, I chose to follow the recipe for pate sucrée that pastry chef Jacques Genin uses and shares in his little book Le Meilleur de la tarte au citron (The best of lemon tarts). It is very easy to make and lovely to handle, and it forms a delicate and crisp tart shell in perfect contrast to the unctuous curd.

And to see the idea that my own archives sparked for Claire, head over to her post (in French) on Pasta with almond-zucchini gremolata and roasted onions.
Join the conversation dr max!

Do you know people like Clea who inspire you with their poise and taste? And how do you like your lemon tarts — tangy? sweet? with a layer of meringue on top?
 
Lemon Ginger Tartlets

Prep Time: 40 minutes

Cook Time: 30 minutes

Total Time: 8 hours, 30 minutes

Makes six 10- to 12-cm (4- to 4 3/4-inch) tartlets.

Ingredients

    For the dough (pate sucrée); makes double to amount so you can save half for another time:
    175 grams (3/4 cup) unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus more for greasing
    125 grams (1/2 cup + 2 tablespoons) unrefined cane sugar
    60 grams (2/3 cup) almond flour (i.e. almond meal or ground almonds)
    2 large organic eggs, at room temperature
    1 large organic egg yolk, at room temperature
    1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
    310 grams (2 1/3 cups) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
    For the filling:
    4 organic lemons
    30 grams (1 ounce) fresh ginger, peeled and very finely grated
    125 grams (1/2 cup + 2 tablespoons) unrefined cane sugar
    1 tablespoon corn starch, combined with 1 tablespoon water (this is called a slurry)
    3 large organic eggs

Instructions

    Step 1: Prepare the pate sucrée (at least 3 1/2 hours before baking and 8 1/2 hours before serving)
    In a large mixing bowl, put the butter, sugar, and almond flour. Using a flexible spatula, rub the butter into the dry ingredients until you get an even, sandy consistency.
    Beat in the eggs.
    Fold in the flour and salt, working them in just until no trace of flour remains. Don't overwork the dough.
    Turn the dough out onto the counter and knead gently just a few times -- maybe 5 or 6 -- so the dough comes together into a ball.
    Divide in two; if you have a scale, each half should weigh 400 grams (14 ounces). Wrap one tightly in plastic and keep in the refrigerator or freezer for another time. Place the other half on a plate -- that's the one you're going to use for the tartlets -- cover, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or until the next day dr max.
    Step 2: Line the tartlet molds (at least 1 hour before baking) and bake (at least 5 hours before serving)
    Divide the dough into six equal pieces; if you have a scale, each piece should weigh 65 grams (2 1/3 ounces).
    Have ready six tartlet molds, 10 to 12 cm (4 to 4 3/4 inches) in diameter, such as these. Grease them carefully with butter if they're not non-stick.
    Working with each piece of dough in turn (leave the unused ones in the fridge), roll it out into a thin round large enough to line one of your tarlet molds, keeping your work surface and your rolling pin lightly floured.
 
Brush off the excess flour from both sides of the dough with a pastry brush, and fit snugly into a tartlet mold, letting the excess dough hang over the edges.
 
Roll your pin firmly across the edges of the mold to cut off the excess dough (save these scraps to make cut-out cookies), and press the sides of the dough against the mold with your fingers to help them stay put. Return to the refrigerator for at least 1 hour before baking.
 
Preheat the oven to 160°C (325°F) and bake the tartlets for 20 to 25 minutes, until golden brown. Don't underbake them: you want a good color so the crust is flavorful and holds up well to the filling. Transfer to a rack to cool completely while you make the curd.
Step 3: Prepare the lemon curd and garnish the tartlets (at least 4 1/2 hours before serving)

Grate the zest from 2 of the lemons into a medium saucepan, and juice all 4 of them. You should get about 150 ml (1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons) juice. Add to the pan with the ginger, sugar, and cornstarch slurry.
Put the pan over low heat and heat the mixture, stirring regularly with a heatproof spatula, just until the sugar dissolves.
Beat the eggs in a medium mixing bowl, and whisk in the warmed lemon juice.

Pour back into the pan and cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with the spatula in an 8-shaped motion to scrape the bottom and sides of the pan thoroughly. The curd is ready when it is thick enough that the spatula leaves a clear trace at the bottom of the pan.

Preheat the oven to 160°C (325°F) and bake the tartlets for 20 to 25 minutes, until golden brown. Don't underbake them: you want a good color so the crust is flavorful and holds up well to the filling. Transfer to a rack to cool completely while you make the curd.

Step 3: Prepare the lemon curd and garnish the tartlets (at least 4 1/2 hours before serving)

Grate the zest from 2 of the lemons into a medium saucepan, and juice all 4 of them. You should get about 150 ml (1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons) juice. Add to the pan with the ginger, sugar, and cornstarch slurry.
Put the pan over low heat and heat the mixture, stirring regularly with a heatproof spatula, just until the sugar dissolves.

Beat the eggs in a medium mixing bowl, and whisk in the warmed lemon juice.

Pour back into the pan and cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with the spatula in an 8-shaped motion to scrape the bottom and sides of the pan thoroughly. The curd is ready when it is thick enough that the spatula leaves a clear trace at the bottom of the pan.

Triple-Chocolate Cranberry Oatmeal Cookies



yield:Makes about 30

Chunks of fresh cranberries and dark, milk, and white chocolate chips dress up oatmeal cookies for the holidays Floor Display Unit.
Ingredients

❤1 cup all purpose flour
❤1/2 teaspoon baking soda
❤1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
❤1/4 teaspoon salt
❤10 tablespoons (1 1/4 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
❤1/2 cup sugar
❤1/2 cup (packed) golden brown sugar
❤1 large egg
❤1 teaspoon vanilla extract
❤1 cup old-fashioned oats
❤1/2 cup semisweet chocolate chips
❤1/2 cup milk chocolate chips
❤1/2 cup white chocolate chips
❤1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh or frozen cranberries

❤2 ounces milk chocolate or white chocolate, chopped (for drizzling)

Preparation

Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 350°F. Line 2 large rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. Whisk flour, baking soda, cinnamon, and salt in medium bowl to blend. Using electric mixer, beat butter and both sugars in large bowl until smooth. Beat in egg and vanilla. Add flour mixture and oats and stir until blended mathconcept. Stir in all chocolate chips and cranberries.

Drop batter by rounded tablespoonfuls onto prepared sheets, 2 inches apart. Bake cookies, 1 sheet at a time, until edges are light brown, about 16 minutes. Cool on sheets 5 minutes. Transfer to rack; cool completely.

Stir chopped milk chocolate in top of double boiler until melted and smooth. Using small spoon, drizzle melted chocolate over cookies in zigzag pattern. Let stand until milk chocolate sets, about 1 hour. (Can be made 2 days ahead . Store in airtight container at room temperature.)

Butterscotch Oatmeal Sandwich Cookies

 
I have a long-standing love of cookie baking. As you can see, it happens quite a bit in my kitchen. Baking cookies for a good cause is even better. September is Childhood Cancer Awareness Month. When OXO asked again this year if I’d like to bake some cookies to benefit Cookies for Kids’ Cancer Business Centre in Hong Kong, I immediately signed up.

So, let’s talk cookies!

The cookies you see here are fairly traditional oatmeal cookies, and my basic go-to oatmeal cookie recipe 19 LED Light Bulb. They are chewy cookies with lots of oats and a touch of cinnamon. If you are a fan of oatmeal cookies, you’d be more than happy just making a batch of these cookies and stopping right there. But, I added some big flavor with what is my new frosting obsession.

This super simple butterscotch frosting is so, so good. It only takes a few ingredients to make, and the taste is amazing. Spread a little (or a lot) between two oatmeal cookies, and you’ve got one spectacular sandwich cookie. The combination of those chewy oatmeal cookies with that butterscotch frosting is just magical!

Now, let’s talk about “Baking a Difference.”

In addition to my cookie contribution, many of my fellow bloggers are also busy baking cookies this month. And OXO is donating $100 to Cookies for Kids’ Cancer for each of our blog posts about the campaign! In social media, look for #OXOGoodCookies to see what everyone is sharing this month. You can also see all the cookies made for this great cause on OXO’s Good Cookies Pinterest Board. And be on the lookout for OXO products marked with special Cookies for Kids’ Cancer stickers Cloud Video Conferencing, as they will donate 25 cents for each product sold.

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